S1 Episode 1 Naming San Francisco 1776

Yerba Buena to San Francisco

Today’s episode, how did San Francisco get its name? I’m born and raised in the immediate San Francisco Area, and I’ve grown up hearing ‘San Francisco was originally called Yerba Buena’. But, is that true? Let’s start my research journey, with San Francisco, before the United States official claim to the area.

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I’m a hobby historian, and a very novice story teller, focused on the California Gold Rush, and San Francisco history.

I could start the first episode, in with the discovery of gold along the American River, but, I want to start in San Francisco before the gold rush. There is a history, worth telling, prior to the Gold Rush, and some of those events, and people, shaped San Francisco, into what it is today.

My first few episodes will set the context for the gold rush.

Now, with most things history, the victor usually writes history. But, we also have people’s need for attention, faulty memories, or biased eye witness accounts, which get captured for posterity, and eventually get accepted as the truth…

When I do my research and decide which stories I want to share, I try to keep all these perspectives in mind, and eliminate embellishments.

Today’s episode, how did San Francisco get its name? I’m born and raised in the immediate San Francisco Area, and I’ve grown up hearing ‘San Francisco was originally called Yerba Buena’. But, is that true? Let’s start my research journey, with San Francisco, before the United States official claim to the area. Now, this is a quick and very high level description of leading events, to catch us up to the point where the story starts.

http://www.sfmuseum.net/hist10/cowan.html

We start in, 1776, and California is currently under Spanish rule. The Spanish build the areas first Village, which is actually a military outpost for the Spanish empire. It’s called El Presidio de San Francisco, 200 soldiers, women, children make this home. The Presidio de San Francisco is established, to guard California’s largest harbor, which is in the San Francisco Bay. In parallel, Spain also builds the Mission San Francisco de Asis.

The Presidio and Mission are built using local, and not so local, indigenous labor (mostly against their will)…there is a lot of history, and perspective, ripe for discussion in that sentence, but I will gently walk away from that…

The Presidio and Mission area, have an appointed Alcalde, from 1779 through 1846, like all California Missions. (Hold onto this point.)

(Alcalde combines being a mayor with a municipal court judge/magistrate).

Fun fact, Mission San Francisco de Asis, is nicknamed ‘Mission Dolores’, after a nearby creek, Arroyo de Los Dolores. So, both names reference the same Mission.

At its peak, in 1820, the Mission San Francisco de Asis had 1,251 people living in the area. But, by 1832, for various reasons, the population was now 204.

The presidio, the mission, and the surrounding structures, workshops, living quarters for the priests, the laborers, the families, were falling into disrepair.

1833. Mexico wins independence from Spain, and renames this area Alta California. A huge turning point, happens. Mexico disassembles the Mission system.

It’s now a few years later, 1836, in Mexico’s Alta California, we now have Californios – Persons who are both of Spanish speaking decent, and born in Alta California.

A Californio of Spanish decent, can also mean a mestizo/a mixture of Spanish and indigenous decent, But, either way, they are born in California. …(the Mission system leaves a legacy of sorts on the population of California…)

We still have the San Francisco District, made up of the once functioning Mission, and associated buildings surrounding the area, which have fallen into disrepair. This area has transformed into a loosely based pueblo/Mexican settlement town/village. Please note, there are still approximately 200 people living in this area surrounding the old Mission. But, it is in a very unestablished manner.

Since dissolving the Mission system, the indigenous are freed, and the majority leave the San Francisco area, but a few remain in the area working as laborers and servants, serving the few remaining Californio families, as house servants, cooks, cattle and farming help…the same duties they had at the Missions. (Hold onto this point.)

In what used to be sand dunes, and empty lots, we have a rapidly growing trade business developing, just a few miles away, along a better protected cove, than the originally established Port at the Presidio of San Francisco. Enter Yerba Buena Cove.

Richardson builds his Casa Grande, which the first house in Yerba Buena at today’s 823 Grant Street, then called Dupont Street.

Mariano Vallejo and British Captain William Richardson see the value in developing this immediate area, and create the Pueblo/Village of Yerba Buena, to formally establish this area, serving the new Port of San Francisco. Yerba Buena village is just a few miles away from the San Francisco village, by the old Mission, located in the current day Financial District. Yerba Buena village is approximately 9 blocks, between current day Sacramento and Washington streets, and from Stockton Street to the bayshore, (the bayshore, at that time, ran along the present day, Montgomery Street). Think about that. The water’s edge once came up to Montgomery Street, and, had it not been for landfill, the TransAmerica building could have been right at the water’s edge.

Yerba Buena Village quickly develops to support the trade business, and establishes the area’s first public square, called La Plaza, or the La Plaza Grande, and the village is quickly being built surrounding this town square, for the new Port of San Francisco, serving the San Francisco Bay. (Note, I’m finding lots of references to the pre-existing name San Francisco for the area, before the creation of Yerba Buena village, including maps, predating 1836 and the creation of Yerba Buena Village.)

The area’s first 4th of July is celebrated at La Plaza in 1837. Now, who would celebrate the 4th of July?

Advanced Warning-This very telling statement, indicative of the time, was printed in The morning call., July 05, 1890. It’s a historic account, taken from a person, who was at Yerba Buena’s first 4th of July celebration, on July 4th 1836.

“The simple minded Indians, and the lower class white people, who had not been invited, gathered around and enjoyed the scene, frequently exclaiming, “Que buenos son los Americanos”, (which was incorrectly translated in the newspaper, so I’ll just correctly translate for you, “How great the Americans are”. (Now, Is this account embellishment, or a biased eye witness account? As I’m finding in my research, what a newspaper prints, and captures for posterity, needs to be interpreted carefully, especially where race and ethnicity are concerned.)

https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn94052989/1890-07-05/ed-1/seq-2/#date1=1777&sort=date&rows=20&words=Buena+Cove+Yerba&searchType=basic&sequence=0&index=0&state=California&date2=1963&proxtext=%27yerba+buena+cove%27&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1

Simple minded Indians… and lower class white people, who seem to speak Spanish…

The important part of this statement, is that we hear a shift in the social dynamics, and the American’s sense of ownership of Yerba Buena. The Americans view the indigenous, and the Californios, similarly, on the social ladder.

Americans do not view the Californios with the same status, the Californios see themselves to have, in relation to the indigenous. Oh, how the mighty have fallen.

So a recap, the San Francisco District, as it was commonly called, includes an informal pueblo, by the old Mission area, and a more formal village, at the Yerba Buena Cove.

Side note, the entire area run under Mexican Law, regardless of the foothold American’s feel they have over Yerba Buena.

http://www.sfsdhistory.com/eras/before-california-statehood

The year is now 1846, and, now, we are finally caught up, to the point at which my topic begins.

We have the Mexican American war in progress, and the United States has a strong interest in 525,000 square miles above Mexico, which includes Alta California.

Yerba Buena, that coastal village, now has 200 residents/50 families, and by the most conservative account, 50 structures (shanties, adobes and frame houses). Yerba Buena is thriving, and the Mission settlement area has faded to just a few families.

We have emigrating US Citizens, Germans, and Irish living, working and trading, along this now bustling coastline.

Yerba Buena village supports the San Francisco Bay for importing sugar from the Sandwich Islands (Hawaii) and exporting hides and tallow to incoming ships from Boston.

United States citizens tend to live in Yerba Buena village, clearly if they’re celebrating the 4th of July. The remaining Californios tend to live in San Francisco village. But, we do have a few prominent Californios living in Yerba Buena.

Okay, we are still in 1846, and it’s July 7.

We have Commander John B. Montgomery of USS Portsmouth arriving in Yerba Buena cove.

They land at the water’s edge, at what is now Montgomery and Clay Street.

On the same day, down in Monterey, Ca we have the USS Savanah and John D Sloat arriving.

Two US military ships simultaneously arriving in both of Alta California’s major ports, on the same day.

Something is certainly up. Let’s hear a portion of what John D Sloat had to say, that day.

I declare(!) …to the inhabitants of California, that although I come in arms, with a powerful force, I do not come among them … as… an enemy to California; on the contrary, I come as their… best friend(!)

-as henceforward, California will be a portion of theeee United States, and its peaceable inhabitants will enjoy the same rights and privileges they now enjoy; together with the privileges of choosing their own magistrates and other officers for the administration of justice among themselves, and the same(!) protection will be extended to them as to any other State in the Union.

http://www.sfsdhistory.com/images/uploads/Sloat-Alta_pdf.pdf

Sloat is declaring that a state of war currently exists between the United States and Mexico, but not with the people of California, declaring America's intention to occupy California as part of the United States.

And, as history tells us, so much of what he said, did not come to fruition for the Californios.

<Swoosh> Back in the San Francisco District

Two days later, on July 9th, 70 marines and soldiers row to the bayshore, and march into Yerba Buena village for what is called ‘The Battle of Yerba Buena’. (Hold on to that.)

The Mexican flag was removed a few days prior, in preparation for the American’s arrival, so, despite more dramatic accounts of the Mexican flag being torn down, the flag pole was empty, when they raised the American Flag in La Plaza Grande, which the American’s now rename Portsmouth Square, and declare this land to be part of the United States.

It wasn’t much of a takeover. The Californios already saw themselves as separate from Mexico and had cultivated what they thought, was a growing, prosperous business relationship and friendship with Americans in Yerba Buena Village for years. I mean, that’s what John B Sloat proclaimed on July 7th. Best friends, right?

Second Lt Henry B. Watson, who was on the USS Portsmouth, wrote about that day: "The Marines in full uniform and the sailors in their Sunday mustering clothes, they made an imposing appearance.... we displayed the flag and pounded with drumbeat and fife playing Yankee Doodle to the public square in the Yerba Buena where the proclamation was read.

. …Yankee Doodle…

At the end of that same month, more American’s arrive in Yerba Buena, on the Ship “Brooklyn”, we have Sam Brannan brining 230 Mormons seeking religious freedom.

Technically speaking, the Ship Brooklyn is the first US ship to land in the newly claimed California, with California now being declared a part of the United States. For a short time, the population of Yerba Buena Village was mostly Mormon. (I was not knowing…)

In one month, Yerba Buena village goes from 200 to over 400 people living in the nine block area. So, the Americans are quickly making a presence.

Back to the USS Portsmouth, we have Lieutenant Washington Allon Bartlett.

Now, this episode is about how San Francisco got its name, and I did say this is where the story for the episode really begins, sooo.

Bartlett is fluent in Spanish, and he’s knowledgeable in legal and naval matters, so just a month after raising the United States flag in Yerba Buena village, Bartlett, being an obvious candidate, is asked to temporarily represent the military government as alcalde of the area.

A month later, in September, 1846, a proper election is held in Yerba Buena village, 96 ballots are cast that day, in the first United States municipal election held, for the San Francisco District, and Barlett becomes the first appointed United States citizen to serve as alcalde for both the Yerba Buena and San Francisco villages.

A Monterey newspaper, the Californian, volume 1, No. 7, publishes a story about this account. This was published all the way down in Monterey, because there were no newspapers published in the San Francisco District, just yet... The headline reads…

"Election--San Francisco district--Held at Yerba Buena, September 15, 1846, for municipal officers.
All the voters of the district assembled at Yerba Buena, agreeable to proclamation. W.A. Bartlett, Esq., as Alcalde under John B. Montgomery.

So, it’s worth noting, a paper of the time, acknowledged Yerba Buena, where the election was held, for San Francisco District…so, the San Francisco District and Yerba Buena exist at the same time.

…but, what about the naming of San Francisco? Here we go….

http://www.sfmuseum.net/hist/name.html

We are still in 1846.

December, of that year, Yerba Buena and what is now known as Benicia, are in “a lively contest to rename their growing towns”. Remember Mariano Vallejo? The Californios have lost their influence, and for various reasons, he has to sell part of his Soscol Ranch, near the Carquinez Straights, which he sells for $500 in gold coins. Vallejo asks the new owner, Doctor Robert Semple, to name the town he plans to create ‘The City of Francisca’ after his wife, Francisca Benicia Carrillo. And, that’s what Semple intended to do.

But…, Alcalde Bartlett wants to synchronize the names of the villages and officially rename Yerba Buena with the very similar name, San Francisco, to put an end to ongoing confusion between Yerba Buena Village and San Francisco Village. But, City of Francisca and San Francisco sound very similar.

Now, if you recall, in 1836, Vallejo who once had great influence in California, and had helped create Yerba Buena… is, ten years later, in the middle of a naming contest, that doesn’t seem to go in his favor.

A non-attributable account from the time wrote:

This name ‘Yerba Buena’ clung so tenaciously to the locality that lieutenant Washington Bartlett, had to publish a proclamation, ordering a reversion to the original name of San Francisco.” … original… name…

From the research I did, the name of Yerba Buena village was mostly used locally. But, the more widely used name for the area was, since Spanish occupation, always San Francisco.

People were using San Francisco and Yerba Buena interchangeably, creating confusion, especially as Yerba Buena village became more prosperous and populated.

Since 1779, we have the San Francisco Bay, the San Francisco Presidio, and the Mission San Francisco de Asis. The only area not named San Francisco was … Yerba Buena Village.

Bartlett was aware of an official map which had depicted Yerba Buena as San Francisco, and

Bartlett wrote:

AN ORDINANCE WHEREAS, the local name of Yerba Buena, as applied to the settlement, or town, of San Francisco, is unknown beyond the district; and has been applied from the local name of the cove, on which the town is built: Therefore, to prevent confusion and mistakes in public documents, and that the town may have the advantage of the name given on the public map;

IT IS HEREBY ORDAINED, that the name of SAN FRANCISCO shall hereafter be used in all official communications and public documents, or records appertaining to the town.

– Washington Bartlett, Chief magistrate January 30, 1847

So, City of Francisca isn’t going to work, so Semple uses Francisca Benicia Cabrillo’s second name, for his new city. Take *that Benicia!

Now, one person is clearly not thrilled about this official name change. Recall Doctor Robert Semple? He spoke to the Monterey Californian newspaper, Volume 2 Number 5, June 19, 1847

https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=C18470619.2.7&e=-------en--20--1--txt-txIN--------1

The place continued to be known by everyone in California as… the Town of Yerba Buena. The public records were kept in that name; the lots were granted by the Alcalde, in …the Pueblo de Yerba Buena, and even the deeds which are now given to citizens, are for lots in… the town of Yerba Buena.

No one ever dreamed of changing the name until I handed in my deeds to be recorded for the present site of Benicia City, with the name of …the City of Francisca.

The Alcalde's eyes were opened at once, and he juuuust recollected for the first time, that he had in former years, seen an old map with the name of …San Francisco marked on it, at a point which nearly corresponded with this place, and the next day issued an order, that …the town of Yerba Buena be hereafter called …San Francisco, and the people quietly submit to pay for lots, and get their deeds for them in a town …which does not exist.

If this place is San Francisco, where is Yerba Buena? Why does the Alcalde still make titles to lots in Yerba Buena?”

Robert Semple was (conveniently) confused by the local use of Yerba Buena, for a village in the San Francisco District. But, I doubt Mariano Vallejo was confused. After all, in 13 years prior, he helped create the Yerba Buena village, in the San Francisco District…

Interestingly, this Monterey Newspaper, the Californian, which, two years prior, ran an article with the headline regarding the San Francisco District election held in Yerba Buena? This same Robert Semple was one of the two publishers of that Monterey newspaper, the Californian. … yup.

The story ends on April 15, 1850, San Francisco is formally chartered as California’s first city and county government, the city and county of San Francisco.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ3Pkz7_a4Y

So, prior my research, my understanding was San Francisco was originally named Yerba Buena, isn’t really correct. And I’m seeing just how United States centric that statement is. A part of what we now call San Francisco, used to be called Yerba Buena village, and was renamed San Francisco. Now, that’s true.

Yerba Buena village, at the time a United States flag was placed in the area, was the only functioning settlement town, with a public square, and a collection of businesses and building structures.

But, also true, is 60 years before creating Yerba Buena village, there was the history of the Spanish built Military Fort, El Presidio de San Francisco, with the accompanying Mission San Francisco de Asis.

Mission San Francisco de Asis, El Presido de San Francisco, and the San Francisco Bay, show up on maps, before the Yerba Buena village creation in 1836.

Recall that Mexico had an appointed alcalde from 1776 through 1846, which includes Yerba Buena’s establishment in 1836…

Actually, the earliest San Francisco map reference I found, is a French map from *1657, showing California an island, and the Punto de Francisco. The Bay was always historically named San Francisco in some manner.

Prior to 1836, the only mention of Yerba Buena, is the cove. By the way, the online David Rumsey Map Collection has an amazing map collection.

Now, how did history evolve into saying San Francisco was originally called Yerba Buena, when there was San Francisco before there was Yerba Buena? Why is history only acknowledging the spot where the US flag was first raised, when the Presidio and the Mission existed before, and during the Battle of Yerba Buena?

Was San Francisco originally named Yerba Buena? Or, was a settlement town, originally called Yerba Buena, in the San Francisco District, and was renamed San Francisco, to match the surrounding area?

Now, with most things history, it’s the victor who writes history. But, we also have people’s need for attention, faulty memories, or biased eye witness accounts, which get captured for posterity, and eventually get accepted as the truth…

Monkey Block San Francisco's Golden History

S1 Episode 1 Naming San Francisco 1776 - 1847

Monkey Block San Francisco's Golden History

S1 Episode 1 Naming San Francisco 1776 - 1847

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